What you need to know
to have a successful project.

Eggs	The Incubator
During Incubation	Brooding the chicks

I. Important procedures to consider:

1. Plan the exact dates during which you wish to do this project. Many teachers use this material as a supplement to a specific curriculum like biology, human sexuality, human development or other related topics. It is extremely important that you understand that this is a continuous project for at least a 25-day period. Plan the project around holidays and testing periods. It is usually best to plan to set your eggs on a Tuesday. This allows you to prepare on Monday and insures that the chicks will not hatch on a weekend.
2. Make sure that after handling the eggs, raw egg products, incubated eggs, chicks or litter; that all students and teachers wash their hands to prevent possible bacterial contamination.
3. Before you order eggs, plan what you will do with the chicks that hatch. Contact a farmer, zoo or other animal caretakers who are equipped to care for the chicks properly. NEVER allow chicks to go home with students from your class. It is your responsibility to make sure that the chicks get a good home.

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II. About the eggs .

1.  Obtaining fertile hatching eggs may present a problem, especially if you live in an urban area. Most of the eggs sold in grocery stores are not fertile and cannot be used for incubation. Fertile eggs can usually be obtained from hatcheries or poultry breeding farms. Some large hospitals may also be able to provide them. Contact your local Extension office for suggestions. The WWW support page also has links to sources.

• For a basic observation and hatching project, 12 eggs per incubator are adequate. If you are planning to do an experiment or activities, additional eggs may be required.
• When you obtain fertile eggs from a source which does not routinely hatch its own eggs, you may want to test the eggs in an incubator to ensure that good fertility and hatchability can be obtained before you use the eggs as part of the class project. Laying hens raised with a male does not guarantee fertility or hatchability. You are also strongly encouraged to use chicken or coturnix quail eggs to hatch in the classroom. Duck, goose, pheasant and other species of fowl can be more difficult to hatch in classroom incubators. Duck and goose eggs often rot and may explode in the incubator.
• When you have located a source of fertile eggs, pick them up yourself, if possible, rather than have them shipped or mailed. It is difficult for hatcheries, the postal service and transportation companies to properly handle small orders of eggs.

2.  Caring for eggs prior to incubation.

• The eggs should be collected within 4 hours from when they were laid.
• If it is necessary to store fertile eggs before setting, store small-end down at a temperature of 50 degrees F to 65 degrees F and at 70% humidity.
• Never store eggs more than 10 days after the eggs are laid. Hatchability drops quickly if they are stored for more than 10 days.
• Transport fertile eggs in a protective carton, small end down. Do not leave eggs in the sun or a hot car. In winter, don't let the eggs get below 35 degrees F.
• It is always best to set the fertile eggs in a prepared incubator within 24 hours of obtaining them.

3.  Preparing the eggs for incubating. Fertile eggs from a commercial hatchery are usually already presorted. However, it is usually wise to check your eggs before setting them.

• Candle eggs prior to setting to check for cracked eggs, thin-shelled eggs and double-yolked eggs. Do not incubate these eggs since they usually do not hatch.
• Do not wash the eggs unless necessary. The eggs have a natural protective coating that is removed by washing. Only wash eggs that are visibly dirty. Then wipe the egg clean with a wet cloth warmer (at least 10 degrees warmer) than the temperature on the eggs. Do not set eggs that are excessively dirty.
• Bring fresh eggs to be placed in the incubator to room temperature two hours prior to setting.
• Mark the eggs with "X" and "O" on opposite sides to aid in daily turning. Also, number the eggs on the top of the large end to aid in identification and records during the project. When marking eggs always use a pencil or wax crayon. Do not use permanent or toxic ink pens or markers.
• Eggs that are warmed to room temperature should be immediately placed in the incubator.

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III. About the incubator and incubation.

1.  Secure an incubator and make sure it is in good working order.

• If buying a new incubator. Order at least one month prior to the start of the project. Forced air incubators (with a fan to circulate the air) are best. Once the new incubator arrives assemble if necessary and follow instructions for operation.
• Used incubators should be checked one month prior to the start of the project. Make sure that your equipment is clean and working correctly. This will allow you time to order parts or a new incubator if necessary.

2. Turn the incubator on a couple weeks before the start of the project and run for 48 hours to insure that everything is working properly. Once you know it is in proper working order, unplug and set in a safe area until a few days before the start of the project.

3.    Inform the administration and maintenance staff that you are doing this project. They can inform you if the electricity needs to be shut off for any reason.

4.  Proper incubator placement in classroom helps avoid problems.

• Set-up the incubator in a room that stays above 65Š F.
• Make sure that the electrical outlet that you are using will be "on" 24 hours a day. Some schools turn off entire sections of the school at night and on weekends.
• Place the incubator on a sturdy level surface.
• Place the incubator at least six inches away from the edge of the surface to avoid accidental bumps.
• Avoid high traffic areas, hot sunny windows, heating and cooling vents drafty windows and doors.
• Turn incubator on 36-48 hours prior to setting the eggs.

5.  Adjust the incubator so it holds the desired temperature. Follow manufacturer guidelines for adjusting the temperature. In still-air units (without fans) adjust the temperature to 101Š F. In forced-air units (with fans), adjust the temperature to 100ŠF. Always adjust the thermostat so the heat source goes off when the temperature reaches the desired temperature and comes on when the temperature drops below the desired temperature.

6.  Use at least two thermometers to insure you are getting an accurate temperature reading.

7.  Check the temperature often. Improper temperature can result in a poor hatch and weak chicks.

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IV. During Incubation .

1. Turn the eggs three times daily. Stop turning eggs three days (after 18 days for chicken eggs) prior to expected hatch.
2. Keep water pans full at all times. Always add water that is warm to the touch. It is best to add the water when you open the incubator to turn the eggs.
3. Keep daily records of all activities involving the eggs (i.e., turning, temperature, water added, candling, and other activities). These records are extremely helpful for trouble-shooting causes of poor hatches.
4. Candle the eggs every three days to check progress.
5. Stop turning eggs three days (after 18 days for chicken eggs) prior to expected hatch.
6. Remove the chicks from the incubator and place them in a warm brooder within two to six hours after they hatch. If your incubator has good levels of humidity the chicks may not dry in the incubator. They will dry once moved to the brooder.
7. Remove and discard all remaining unhatched eggs 60 hours after the first chick hatches, then disconnect incubator power.
8. Clean and disinfect the incubator as soon as the power is disconnected. Once the dirt has dried to the surface, it becomes difficult to remove.
9. Let the incubator dry. Then store it in a safe, cool and dry place.

 

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V. Brooding the chicks .

1. Make sure the Brood Box is working 2-4 days prior to hatch.
2. Brooders should maintain a temperature of 92 to 95Š F (taken at one inch above the floor level, the height of the chick's back) during the first week. If you keep the chick beyond the first week, decrease the temperature 5Š F per week until room temperature is reached.
3. The brooder should have a textured, absorbent litter on the floor. If the floor is slippery, the chicks can damage their legs. Pine or cedar shaving or textured paper towel work best in the classroom.
4. Feed 18-22 percent protein chicken starter food. This completely balanced ration can be obtained from any feed and garden store. The feed can be placed in jar lids, egg cartons, small tuna type cans or a commercial chick feeder.
5. Water should be available at all times. Use watering equipment that will not allow the chick to get into the water and drown. Commercially made water fountains for use with a quart jar work best. If you need to use a watering devise that is not proven, it is recommended that you place clean marbles or gravel in the water so the chicks can drink between them but not get into the water and drown.
6. Clean the waterer and brooder daily. This will prevent odors and keep the brooder dry. Dampness provides favorable conditions for the development of molds and bacteria.